Diet
General Diet Info
Hay intro
Hay types new!
Vegetables
Pellets
Treats

Care
Bunny-Proofing
Housing
Grooming
Long-haired rabbits new!
Unwanted Litters: know the facts
Short distance traveling
Long distance traveling
Losing a loved one new!

Behaviour
Get to Know Your
Rabbit
Bonding
Bonding: Trios new!
Bonding Stories new!
Chewing/Digging
Litter Training
Types of litter
Spaying/Neutering
Toys

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Pellets

Adult rabbits (over approximately 7 - 8 months) who are no longer growing require more fibre and less protein and calcium than young, growing rabbits. Ideally, pellets should be high in fibre (a minimum 18%), low in protein (maximum content of 14% - 15%) and low in calcium (maximum 1%).

Most commercially produced rabbit pellets are alfalfa based. Timothy based pellets are higher in fibre and lower in calcium than alfalfa pellets, but are not as readily available at pet stores. However, these pellets can be ordered from most vet clinics. Timothy pellets may be beneficial for:

• Rabbits who have stones or sludge (because they have less calcium than alfalfa based pellets).
  
• Rabbits who are overweight or those who suffer from intermittent soft stool (because they are lower in protein and higher in fibre than alfalfa based pellets).

Timothy pellets may not be a good choice for long haired rabbits (who need extra protein for hair growth) or thin rabbits. See "Alfalfa- and Timothy-Based Pellets: What’s the “Skinny?”" By Susan Smith for a comparison of timothy and alfalfa pellets.

Changing Your Rabbit's Diet

Some rabbits over-consume pellets, which can lead to obesity and other health problems. If your rabbit has had a diet that consisted solely of pellets, introduce grass hay and slowly add a variety of greens, while gradually reducing pellet intake. Remember to make dietary changes slowly and to watch your rabbit closely. As you limit your rabbit's pellet intake, make sure he is eating an increased amount of hay and greens. Do not restrict pellets too much if there is no other food source.

A daily guideline for pellet consumption if your rabbit is eating a lot of hay and fresh foods:

1/8 cup for 2-4 lbs body weight per day
1/4 cup for 5-7 lbs body weight per day
1/2 cup for 8-10 lbs body weight per day
3/4 cup for 11-15 lbs body weight per day

Other Points to Keep in Mind

• Thin, ill or elderly rabbits can be given more pellets to help sustain their proper weight. Please see your veterinarian if you are not sure of the proper weight for your rabbit.
• Plain pellets are a healthier choice than pellets that include seeds, nuts, corn or dried fruit, which are unnecessarily high in sugar and fat.
  
• Old/expired pellets may lose their nutritional value over time, so do not buy too many pellets at one time. Store pellets in a cool, dry place to keep them fresh. It is not recommended that you freeze your rabbit's pellets to prolong shelf life because the introduction of moisture during the thawing process and fluctuating temperatures may be conducive to mold growth and subsequent formation of mycotoxins. Read the following articles on the risk of mycotoxins in rabbit feed:
  Mold and Mycotoxins in Rabbit Feed by: Cristina Forbes, Ph.D
  Molds, Mycotoxins and Feeds: A Brief Summary by: Dr Ron Rompala
  Pyloric Stenosis in Rabbits from From: National Center for Biotechnology Information
• Some rabbits may never find hay and greens that appealing and will remain pellet junkies. Try not to force feed, stress or upset your rabbit when changing his diet. Like people, rabbits don't always like to eat what is best for them!
• Another good reason to limit pellets and feed your rabbit lots of hay: Pellets are softer and easier to chew than hay, while hay helps to sustain healthy teeth by reducing the risk of molar spurs.
• Remember that pellets do not need to be the main food source of a mature rabbit's diet! It's a misconception that a rabbit should be fed pellets exclusively. In fact, some rabbits thrive on a pellet-less diet of hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.
  

Read Confessions from a former pellet lover.