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Unwanted Litters: know the facts
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Bonding: Trios new!
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Bonding rabbits: Trios can be trickier than a pair

Whether you are trying to bond a pair or a trio, the basics of bonding remain the same. The key to a successful bond is personality. Some rabbits may fall in love at first sight and bond very quickly, some may develop a tentative friendship that takes several months to achieve, while others may simply be incompatible and not bond at all.

Body language and communication
To assess the bonding process, you must understand your rabbit's body language
and basic forms of communication. Mounting is a natural way to show dominance. It is not necessary to stop mounting if the rabbit being mounted does not retaliate or become afraid. However, never allow backwards mounting because the rabbit on top can be seriously injured with one bite.
You also need to understand the difference between nipping (a form of communication) and biting (a deliberate attack). A rabbit preparing to fight may display an erect tail, flat ears, and tense body posture. Try to stop a fight before it occurs, using a spray bottle on a stream setting or clap your hands together, to distract a rabbit that is displaying a fighting posture. If you have to separate a fight, wear oven mitts for your own protection. When fighting or nipping has occurred, always check your rabbits
thoroughly for wounds. Bites and scratches can abscess and become serious, so any
cuts or abrasions should be treated quickly.
Circling and chasing are common occurrences during bonding that can quickly escalate into a fight. Stop circling and chasing, but do not separate the rabbits. Instead, place them side by side while petting them or feeding them treats. After they have calmed down, you can let them run around again.

Bonding Trios
There are definite advantages to having bonded rabbits. Rabbits who have a bonded friend tend to be less bored - and, therefore less destructive - than single rabbits. They have company when you are working late, and it is easier to clean one cage or pen area. However, keep in mind that when adding a third rabbit to an already bonded pair, the dynamics of the group may change. Sometimes one member of the existing pair will bond with the new rabbit, while the other does not. Or, the existing bond may break when a third rabbit is introduced.
When rabbits share accommodations it is harder to determine if all the rabbits are
eating or defecating regularly. In addition, certain rabbits may require specific diets, so
feeding them in a group setting becomes more complicated. For example, longhaired
rabbits need more protein than shorthaired rabbits. Or, a rabbit that tends to gain
weight easily, or have excess cecals, cannot receive as many treats as a slimmer rabbit.
Bonding trios can be tricky. Members Paul and Windy offer their tips for creating a
bonded trio.

Paul's experience

Bobby, my first bunny, arrived nine years ago. Life with Bobby settled into a pattern. But, as he was mostly alone, I decided to find him a friend when he was about 18 months old. Baby Sophie arrived from the Toronto Humane Society small enough to sit in her water bowl.

After a month in her cage, during which time free-range Bobby
showed great interest, it was time for bonding. Sophie was let out with Bobby and I stood ready to intervene, expecting the worst.
It happened quickly. After some mad dashing and flying fur, Sophie flattened herself submissively on the floor before Bobby. Bobby was satisfied and headed for his den under the bed. Sophie, enamored with handsome Bobby, took off in hot pursuit and disappeared behind him. This happened in the span of two minutes and, having seen the fur fly, I was scared that Bobby would aggressively defend his private area. But that was it. Our first successful bonding experience was complete and Sophie became Bobby's devoted companion.

Three happy years later, Bobby died suddenly and we were devastated. Soon after,
a bunny cuddler at the Toronto Humane Society chose Joey, an 18-month old Himalayan dwarf, as Sophie's new friend. After the first success, I expected the bonding to go well. Not being a fan of cages, I used a folding wooden baby gate between a wall and a piece of furniture to create a large corner territory for Joey. Free-range Sophie, fascinated by the new arrival, spent much of her time at the gate. But Joey defended the gate vigorously, biting at any part of Sophie that poked through. The gate had fairly large holes and Sophie ended up with a deep bite on her nose and a very visible scar.

As the weeks passed, Joey was occasionally allowed out in Sophie's presence. Each time the fur flew and they were quickly separated. As Joey gradually settled into his new territory and routine, his aggressive behavior diminished. Around the fourmonth
mark, the gate was opened and there was no fighting. The bunnies visited between territories, but returned to their own space for food and toiletries. Initially the gate was shut when there was no supervision, but gradually it was left open more until it was always open. They have now been a happy couple for over four years.
This bonding was also a success, but took longer and was more traumatic. Again, the bunnies bonded because they chose to, with the humans acting only as servants and referees.

Four years later, Cammy, a grey, seven-year-old female arrived from Rabbit Rescue. Again, I used a baby gate, with smaller holes, between pieces of furniture to create a separate space for Cammy. I expected bonding difficulties with the trio, but hoped the territory concept might work. If Cammy settled into her own space, the bunnies could trade territorial access and bonding would happen. However, Cammy is not attached to her territory and rarely goes in voluntarily. However, the other bunnies love exploring
it. I tried letting them explore neutral territory in the basement together, but they
explored by themselves, and Cammy was attacked when the others came upon her.

Although Cammy is bigger and never bites or chases the other bunnies, barriers are required to keep her safe. At the sixweek mark, I started integrating her, but not without Cammy having been bitten several times. I monitor these bite areas carefully to ensure that they heal properly without abscesses developing. From three months,
she has been out with the others for several hours most evenings in my presence.
Joey loves to chase Cammy, but is not interested in hurting her. It seems like a game and is good exercise. Sometimes they eat treats together and are calm for a minute. Then one makes a sudden move and the chase begins again. Sophie, on the other hand, is not interested in chasing Cammy but bites if she gets the chance. Sophie usually lies sedately out of the way but occasionally Joey chases Cammy into Sophie's area. Sophie, who has a touch of arthritis, no longer hops up on things much and leaves Cammy alone on her stool. But when Cammy is nearby on the ground, Sophie is suddenly reinvigorated and moves incredibly fast.

Several times I experienced Sophie's sharp teeth when, in trying to protect Cammy with my hand, Sophie bit me before realizing my hand was not Cammy.
Four months after Cammy's arrival I was discouraged, as bonding progress had ceased. Then one day while I was cleaning Cammy's eyes, Joey came to sniff and
Cammy did not bolt. Holding her tightly, I turned Cammy around. Joey groomed her
eyes, but Cammy did not reciprocate. This was the first grooming since the day
Cammy arrived, when Sophie groomed her as I held them close. Cammy did not
reciprocate then either. Cammy grooms herself, but does not understand the need to
groom other bunnies.

Since Joey's first grooming, Cammy seems less threatened by him. When he jumps up on her stool, she sometimes holds her ground while they sniff each other. To encourage the process, I force Cammy to stay for a while and pat them together. Joey will groom her and then position himself for his turn, which does not come. While being patted, they stay together, although Cammy remains nervous. I hope that this process will lead to Cammy accepting Joey. If it were just these two, bonding would eventually happen.

There has been no progress with Sophie and she remains committed to evicting Cammy. My hope is that Joey's acceptance of Cammy will soften Sophie's resolve. Only time will tell, but they may never be a bonded trio.

My observations on bonding cannot be generalized as the sample size is too small, but it seems that:

• It really is up to the bunnies. If they do not want to be friends, all you can really do is keep them apart.
  
• The new bunny must be comfortable in its new home before bonding can begin in earnest.
  
• A baby bunny is more readily accepted.
  
• Male to female bondings are easier than same sex bondings, even if the bunnies are spayed or neutered
  
• Group dynamics make bonding three bunnies more difficult than a pair.

Paul Fortin

Windy's experience

It took me a week to bond my first pair of rabbits, Fluffie and Spiffie. There was no fighting, no "dominance" (except for the first five seconds when Spiffie met his new mate) but also no grooming. One rabbit was slightly more submissive to the other, which was a surely a good sign, and they would enjoyably lounge on a towel together.

Nervously, I put them in a single cage at the end of the week and hoped they would survive the night while I was not watching them. When I found them very much alive and socializing the next morning; that must have been where my addiction to rabbits had a wonderful new beginning.

I was very lucky considering I was oblivious at that time to what could have happened if a fight were to arise. Then again, I have learned that in bonding rabbits, sometimes taking a plunge is not such a bad idea.

I adopted Rose as the third rabbit several months after Fluffie and Spiffie were bonded. I started observing and getting to know my own rabbits' personalities: Fluffie being dominant and a little aggressive, Spiffie being incredibly outgoing, and Rosie being somewhat submissive and shy. I tried to avoid having a group with more than one dominant bunny because I have heard that two dominant rabbits usually fight. And, even if they do bond they may fight later on in the relationship.

In the six months before successful bonding occurred, I had tried bonding sessions in several neutral areas, such as the bathtub, bathroom, car (both moving and parked), table tops, and penned off areas throughout the house. Every day I switched their living space and litter boxes because I hoped that they would get acquainted with each other's scent. Theirpens were side by side and nothing large would block their view from each other.

In the beginning, I tried to introduce all three rabbits at once. That did not turn out
very well because Fluffie and Spiffie just chased off Rose. So, I started to do what I
call "paired bonding". First, I would pair one of the bonded rabbits with Rose, then I
would pair the other member of the bonded pair with her. This way, Rose would not be
ignored and the member of the bonded pair would feel safer (and more comfortable)
getting to know the other rabbit.

Initially I kept the sessions brief to keep things positive. Then I threw in several hour-long sessions, always trying to end bonding sessions on a positive note. For example, I gave the bunnies a treat right before ending the session, teaching them that every time a session ended well, they would be rewarded.

Once you see that the rabbits are more relaxed, you can start trying "trio bonding" sessions.

Helpful Tips

• Spay or neuter the rabbits. This will eliminate chances of unwanted litters and your bunnies will be less territorial.
  
• Pick a neutral spot in your home to introduce the rabbits rather than introducing them in established territory. This gives a rabbit less reason to "defend" the space.
  
• Give each "pair" some alone time and work with the pair that seems more
  difficult to bond.
  
• Switch living areas or litter boxes every other day, so the rabbits get used to
  each other's scent.
  
• Sharing a litter box filled with hay or vegetables helps distract the rabbits while keeping them near each other.
  
• Smear a little bit of peanut butter or banana onto one of the rabbit's heads to encourage grooming. Grooming provides the rabbits with a sense of acceptance.
  
• And remember, patience and persistence are needed.

Windy Chiu